MyTripABLE

People of the Blue Green Waters

Havasupai, meaning people of the blue green waters, evokes images of pristine turquoise waterfalls cascading through a lush landscape nestled within the midst of an acrid desert. The Havasupai Reservation, located deep within the Grand Canyon, is home to five (5) waterfalls: Navajo Falls, Fifty Foot Falls, Havasu Falls, Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls.

Discovering the True Essence of Havasupai

The hike into Havasupai Falls is not for the faint of heart, but the journey is as transformative as the destination. It ended up being roughly 12 miles of rocky, sandy, downhill terrain from the hilltop to the campground. Something to be aware of, it’s listed as a very difficult hike, but I chose it to be my first long range hike. There’s no water, no roads, and very little shade. As a below the knee amputee, I knew the path ahead would be challenging, but I was determined to experience the magic of this hidden gem. Even though that frequently meant I had to tell myself “Just one more step” and “You got this. Just put one foot in front of the other”. I quite literally talked myself through the hike. because there definitely times I did not think I would make it.

I’d never even heard of this turquoise wonderland until a short-form video popped up on my Facebook feed, ah.. Remember the hay days of the Facebook feed? Anyway, it was a few months after my husband passed away and I needed a way to clear my mind and I decided this was it. This was how I was going to regain my sanity, clear my deep seated depression, and work through my grief. It never even crossed my mind that I might be the first (1st) amputee to ever make this hike.

I expected a grueling walk through a pretty canyon, where I would look around in wonder at my surroundings. What I found along the way surpassed my wildest expectations, but looking around in wonder wasn’t one of the things I did. I stumbled across rocks, got blisters, but mostly watched my feet the entire time. I made lifelong friends, learned their stories, and eventually made it to the campground. I had done it. I had made it the 12 miles down into the canyon.

Overcoming Fear and Limitations

As I trekked through the rugged terrain, I encountered fellow travelers, though most couldn’t get over the fact that an overweight, middle-aged woman with one leg was making this trek. Albeit very, very slowly. Engaging in conversations about our shared experiences, expectations, and triumphs became a source of inspiration. Inspiration I later learned went both ways; I was inspired by their stories of how they got here and they, simply put, inspired by me. We embraced the hike with a renewed sense of wonder. I mean come on, we were hiking through a canyon that was over 70 million years old! It’s hard NOT to feel a sense of wonder!!!

All that said, I would not have been successful in this attempt had it not been for one very kind and very attentive guide. He took me up boulders to see cave carvings when I needed a break. He forced me to drink water when he saw I was struggling. He made me get more in tuned with what my body needed by focusing on everything from my breathing (I’m sure I sounded like an angry hippo huffing and puffing), focusing on how red my skin was becoming (that man applied more sunscreen to my shoulders than should be allowed), and timing breaks. Like the stubborn little thing that I am, I just wanted to power through, but on this hike much like life, breaks are important. He stuck with me the entire three (3) days and even showed me a cool underwater cave. Yes, that is a photo of him pretending to be a monster emerging from that cave, gotta love that range!

The Slowest Hiker with the Biggest Heart

So okay, let’s be real—I wasn’t the fastest hiker on the trail. In fact, I was the absolute slowest, often getting passed by sprightly individuals twice my age. But you know what? It didn’t matter. We all ended up at the same place, base camp. We all passed by canyon walls and through the reservation on the way down to the campsite. I decided pretty early on that the journey wasn’t a race, and it’s a good thing too because I would have come in dead last. Instead, this was an opportunity to savor every moment, every step, and every breathtaking view.

My trusty mid-range, activity foot carried me along (a Blatchford BladeXT), proving that speed isn’t what matters most—it’s the spirit within. I’ve mentioned my fabulous guide but the other MVP of this trek was truly that foot. It offers more energy return than a standard prosthetic leg and came in under 2lbs, which meant it was lightweight and helped to propel me forward in a manner closer to what one could expect from a natural, bio-grown leg. While I still wasn’t winning any races that day (or any other day), I still managed to do it! That day I managed to become the very first (1st) person with a lower limb amputation to hike into Havasupai Falls. I didn’t take the helicopter and I didn’t use a donkey. I took the good old heel toe express!

Fred, the Rock, and the Power of Connection

During my time in Havasupai, I formed an unexpected bond with a simple rock I named Fred. It may sound silly, but Fred became a symbol of resilience and companionship, a reminder of the remarkable journeys we embark upon and the connections we forge along the way. Yeah I know, it sounds a lot like Wilson the volleyball from the movie Castaway, but this was Fred. And more importantly, it was my Fred!

Triumphs in the Turquoise Waters

The turquoise waters of Havasupai Falls beckon adventurers, inviting them to immerse themselves in its ethereal beauty. The waters whispered stories of resilience, echoing the strength of the Havasupai people, known as the guardians of the Grand Canyon, have thrived in these lands for over 1,000 years.

Conquering Fears, One Rock at a Time & Cave Paintings

As a disabled amputee traveler, fear can be a constant companion. Will I get injured? Will I even be able to complete the hike? So. Many. Will. I’s. But Havasupai Falls became a playground for conquering those fears. I challenged myself to rock climb(ish), more like rock scramble, but it was still in an upwardly direction about 50 feet off the ground, so we’ll count that as climbing. It definitely brought on feelings of exhilaration and pushed me beyond my comfort zone. With each step, I realized that fear is merely an illusion that can be overcome with determination and the support of those around us, mainly the support and hand holding of one extremely patient guide.

We climbed a small section of rocky outcropping that was about 50 feet off the ground to make our way into a cave, a rocky open ledge protected and set back under a red rock overhang, with some of the most beautiful cave paintings I’ve seen up close. They truly called to my soul and were it not for the promise of the paintings, there is just no way I would have done that climb, regardless of how small it was. These particular paintings are said to date back over 1000 years, and I was one of the privileged few to see them in person. What a special adventure indeed.

The Reward at the Base of the Grand Canyon

After the arduous hike into the heart of the canyon, I finally reached the base, a place that defied imagination. Not going to lie, the videos of me are quite funny. I seriously look like I could fall over at any minute. And, I remember deeply regretting my life choices at many points, and just telling myself: One foot in front of the other. It just takes one foot in front of the other. Eventually I will make it. We started out around 10am and it would dark before I made it to camp, my headlamp blazing my trail and helping to ensure my footing was sure. The only lights were the stars above and my headlamp which I of course had pointed directed at my feet to keep from falling.

Given my penchant for staring at my feet while I walked, I was really fortunate that my guide surprised me with pics of ME. I realized I was missing so much of the journal because I had to stare at the ground to keep from falling on the rocky terrain, so I asked him to snap a few pics of the canyon for me. This man definitely understood the assignment! When he handed back that camera, I was treated to great pics of my triumph and my struggles. He got pictures of me slowing pecking my way over rocks and under waterfalls. So, maybe this is a love story to more than the Havasupai tribe and their home, maybe it’s also a love story for that guide. For without him, I truly don’t know that I would have been able to complete this task. Just goes to show that during travel much like during life, your support system matters!

I got to see towering cliffs, thundering waterfalls, and the serenity of nature. All of which embraced me in a way I had never experienced before. It was a reward beyond measure, a testament to the indescribable beauty that exists in the world, just waiting to be discovered. The biggest thing I noted after the trip was just how small I felt surrounded by the towering rock cliffs. Well that and the feeling that a dinosaur was going to come roaring around the corner at any second, a la Jurassic Park!

A Journey to Remember

The Havasupai Falls experience is not for the faint-hearted, but it’s a journey that will forever be etched in your soul. Disabled travel may require additional planning and considerations, but the rewards far outweigh the challenges. The base of the Grand Canyon is a testament to the extraordinary possibilities that lie beyond our perceived limitations. As I previously mentioned, I found out later that I was the first amputee to hike into the Havasupai Reservation, which to this day astounds me, as this was in 2018! How are there still places that amputees haven’t been in 2018?! We make up roughly 10% of the global population, and with numbers like that, how can there be places amputees haven’t been?

I thank the amazing residents of the community who welcomed me open arms and shared with me their stories. I learned from the locals that diabetes is extremely prevalent on the reservation and limb loss is common. Which made this journey all the more special to me as I got to see so many limb loss warriors living their daily lives, and they got to see me conquering the 12 mile hike into the reservation and onto the campgrounds and waterfalls.

I was told I was the first amputee to hike in, a fact later confirmed by good ol’ Dr. Google. So thank you again to the Havasupai Tribe for allowing me the opportunity to visit with you and marvel at your ancestral homelands! To this day, I’m not exactly sure which experience meant more to me; completing the arduous hike, being the 1st amputee to hike into Havasupai falls, or simply meeting the people and hearing their stories of trails and triumphs.

So You Want to Visit the Reservation and Havasupai Falls

The very first step to making your hiking dreams a reality, before you buy the shoes and backpack, before you start to train, you have to get the passes. The Havasupai tribe limits the number of visitors allowed to visit the reservation in order to maintain the pristine, unspoiled beauty of their tribal homelands. As of 2024, reservation passes are $152 per day, and sell out within minutes of opening day. Every year on February 1st, phone lines and (as of 2019) a website, open for reservation requests. There are four (4) phone lines, should you want to call rather than log on, and the phone numbers are:

• 928-448-2141
• 928-448-2121
• 928-448-2174
• 928-448-2180

Your reservation passes include your campground fee and it is pack in – pack out, meaning you pack in everything you need and you take everything (I mean EVERYTHING) you came with. There is one (1) public restroom at the campgrounds.

In the event you don’t want to camp, there is also a rustic lodge that can be booked, but be advised: Lodge reservations and books do NOT include passes to the reservation so make sure you have those before booking at the lodge. Lodge reservations are $2,277 per lodge room, and sleep up to 4 people per room. There is a small grocery store and a small cafe on the reservation in the event you forgot something. There are no day-passes to the Havasupai Falls and campground reservations are now for 3 nights/4 days with a limit of up to 12 people in total per reservation. Prices include all necessary permits, fees, and taxes, with an estimated total of $455 per person for a 3 night/4 day stay. You can of course reserve longer than 3 nights, but that’s really about all you need to see everything.

Take note, regardless of what you see online, there are NO commercial permits given to tour companies, which means, there are no commercially guided trips to Havasupai Falls. You MUST get a reservation privately through the tribe’s website. Now that is not to say that you cannot reserve a tour guide, in addition to your campsite/reservation passes, which is what I did. I chose an outfitter that would provide and schlep all the needed equipment, including food and water, and pick me up from my motel in Phoenix. In 2018 this cost about $900 per person which brought my total, not including airfare to Phoenix, to around $1200 (passes were less expensive then), not entirely a budget camping trip but I truly believe well worth the money!

I’ve included links to the reservation site, the lodge, and the tribes website but these are not affiliate links. I’m not getting paid to include these, I just think they are important to know. Also included are some really excellent, albeit very difficult to find, FAQs about reservation passes and Lodge information. Seriously y’all. This took me hours to find, so you’re welcome..lol..